A freezing cold first night at camp had us worried that we hadn’t brought the right sleeping bags for the trip. Luckily the first night turned out to be exceptionally cold for the season, and we can sleep just fine!
Second day we went to “Castrojo” and ended up climbing in the scorching sun. It was a good day climbing, but we got very tired from the heat and light.
Third day we decided to head up to the “Poema de Roca” cave, to maybe try some of the steeper stuff. We did a really cool 6b called “Stonker”, before we approached the overhangs. Pinches ended up in a crazy, sick no-hands rest position at one of the routes, but sadly we didn’t get any photos of it.
Feeling done with the cave, we headed down around the corner to “Momia”, where we thought we climbed a 6c called “Gaia”. The route we climbed was very interesting, with very sharp, cauliflower-like features on the middle part before turning into tufas. We are very curious about how this kind of rock is made, so if anyone knows please leave a comment below! “Gaia” was also our first encounter with problems reading the guidebook. It turned out that the route we climbed was actually a 7a called “El Orejazo”. Oh well.
A couple of days climbing made us realize that we needed sun block, hats and proper sunglasses, so we decided to head into Málaga the 6th of December. On the train we looked up some shops to visit, and noticed that it said “constitution day may affect the opening times” on all the places we planned to go. Shit. It was too late to turn back, so we just had to hope for the best.
Most of the shops were closed, but cafés, some touristy shops and an apothecary were open, so we managed to get most of the things we were looking for. Sunglasses, lunch, ice cream, candy, sunblock, lozenges and a couple of expensive designer shoes for Crimps that he’s completely ruining in the mountains by now. We ended the Málaga experience at the beach.
After a rest day in the city, we felt fit and ready to tackle the multipitch route “Amptrax”. We got up bright and early, brought only the essentials for a day on the rock and headed out. Que problems with guidebook numero dos. Arriving at what looked to be the approach to the climb, we started scrambling up a pretty steep, probably grade 3, wall to reach what we thought to be the start of “Amptrax”.
We climbed one very loose, grimy and sharp pitch when we realised that we were WAY off route. We decided to turn around and bail to the ground because no way we wanted to climb this shit route.
Feeling sad and dejected we took a lunch break at a grassy plateau on the way down. Apparently we had climbed the first “kind of” pitch unprotected, so we rappelled three rope lengths down to the base again.
We climbed one very slippery, but interesting, route at “Albercones” before heading back to camp and chilling by the pool for the rest of the evening.
From outside our tents, 7th of December 2017